Christmas in Zakynthos

In Greece, when we talk about the “holidays”, we are referring to the holiday period of Christmas, New Year, and Epiphany. There are many traditional Greek customs associated with the “twelve days of Christmas,” some very old —like the decoration of the boat, carol singing, Agios Vasilis (the Greek Santa Claus), the cutting of the vasilopita, and the smashing of the pomegranate— and others relatively recent, like the decorated tree and the turkey on the Christmas Day table. Many of the traditions that continue to be honored today trace back through generations of Greeks from islands, villages, and cities alike.

The Decoration of the Traditional Fishing Boat at Christmastime

The tradition of decorating a small wooden boat during Christmastime dates back many years, as Greece is an ancient maritime country where most men traditionally worked as fishermen. During the Christmas period, families would decorate a small wooden boat to symbolise their gratitude for the safe return of the father and sons, who had braved the forces of nature and the harsh winter sea. The children of the family used to build a small boat out of paper or wood, decorate it, and go from house to house singing traditional Greek carols—usually accompanied by musical instruments typical of their region. In their boat, the children would collect Christmas pastries, hot cross buns, and other treats from the households they sang for.

Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas), the Patron Saint of Sailors, also plays a role in the origin of this beautiful Greek Christmas tradition. Boats are decorated in honour of Saint Nicholas. As his feast day falls on 6th December, this is the day the boats are decorated, and they remain on display until 6th January, the Feast of the Epiphany. Agios Nikolaos is regarded as the patron saint of sailors because many of his miracles are associated with the sea. According to legend, while he was travelling to the Holy Land of Jerusalem to pray, a violent storm erupted and one of the sailors fell from the mast and died. The Saint prayed to God, the sea calmed, and the sailor was miraculously brought back to life. This, therefore, is the reason for building small chapels next to fishing harbours, as locals believe that he protects the boats and their crews.

The first known Christmas tree in Greece was introduced in 1833 by King Otto and was set up next to a large decorated boat.

Christmas Carols

On 24th December, you may be woken up early in the morning by groups of children coming to your home to sing carols! The children go from house to house singing about the birth of Jesus Christ, holding small metal triangles and striking them with short metal bars. Some children used to build small paper or wooden boats, decorate them, and wander from home to home singing traditional Greek carols. Saint Nicholas, the Patron Saint of Sailors, also plays a part in the origins of these wonderful Greek Christmas traditions.

Opening the door to the children is believed to bring good luck into the home. The children will ask, ‘Να τα πούμε;’ (‘Na ta poume?’, literally ‘Shall we say them?’, meaning ‘Shall we sing the carols?’), and we are expected to reply, ‘Να τα πείτε!’ (‘Na ta peite!’, literally ‘Say them!’). In return, the carollers receive coins or goodies such as traditional holiday sweets, including Christmas honey biscuits (melomakarona) or Christmas butter biscuits topped with powdered sugar (kourabiedes), pomegranates (in Greek mythology, the pomegranate is a symbol of fertility and rebirth, associated with the worship of three major goddesses: Hera, Zeus’s wife; Aphrodite, the goddess of love; and Demeter, the goddess of agriculture and nature’s rebirth), and Greek Christmas breads known as Christopsoma. These are made on Christmas Eve, with great care put into their preparation.

The word “carol” comes from a Greek dance called the choraulein, which was accompanied by flute music. The dance later spread throughout Europe and became particularly popular in France, where the flute music was replaced with singing. Carols were originally performed on various occasions throughout the year. By the 1600s, carols involved singing only, and Christmas had become the main holiday associated with them. Greek Christmas carols date back to Byzantine times, and the word kalanta derives from the Latin calenda, meaning the start of the month.

Much like every Greek folk song, the lyrics and music of the kalanta vary depending on the region. This variation is evident not only in the musical instruments accompanying the carollers but also in the rhythm and the well-wishes. In some regions, the musical accompaniment includes guitars, clarinets, tabor drums, harmonicas, or accordions.

Zakynthian Christmas Eve

A very old custom that has faded in many other parts of Greece is still celebrated by many every Christmas Eve on Zakynthos. The tradition is that from the early morning of Christmas Eve, preparations for the Kouloura (sweet bread) begin – though kitchen princesses like myself make an exception and buy it from the bakeries of Zante. ;-)

The Kouloura also symbolises the Star of Bethlehem. The kouloura on Zakynthos is something between a cake and a bread, usually made with 15 ingredients, including aromatic spices like cinnamon, clove, and anise, along with olive oil, red wine, Zakynthian raisins, pine nuts, walnuts, orange juice, and mandarin zest. The bread is elaborately decorated with dough, and hidden inside is a silver or golden coin called “ηύρεμα,” or evrema (meaning “finding”). Before it is cut, the tray with the bun is brought to the lit fireplace, crossed three times over the fire, and a mix of olive oil and wine is poured over it while religious psalms are sung. The bun is then returned to the table, where the head of the family begins to cut the pieces. The first is for Christ, the second for the poor, the third for the home, and then for the members of the family, in order of age. Everyone waits eagerly to see if they’ll find the coin – which is said to bring good luck – in their slice.

On a traditional Zakynthian Christmas Eve table, a soup made with broccoli and boiled broccoli is also served. Did you read that right? Yes, indeed – broccoli! This traces back to the 40-day fasting period before Christmas, during which tradition calls for abstaining from rich foods in order to receive Holy Communion at church the next morning.

Twelve Days Traditions in Greece

The Greek Twelve Days of Christmas begin on Christmas Day and continue until 6th January, which is known as the Feast of Epiphany. During these twelve days, people traditionally keep their household fires burning throughout the period. It all starts with the ceremony of the Kouloura, as the pouring of a mixture of olive oil and wine is considered a sign of goodwill, intended to keep evil spirits away from the home—especially from entering through the chimney. In the old days, belief in the Kallikantzaroi (goblins) was very real. Kallikantzaroi are said to live underground, sawing away at the world tree in an attempt to make it collapse and destroy the Earth. But just as they are about to succeed, Christmas Day arrives, allowing them to come to the surface and cause mischief among humans. On Epiphany (6th January), when the sun symbolically begins to move again, they are forced to return underground. However, while they’ve been away, the world tree has healed itself—thanks to the magic of Christmas—so they must begin their work all over again. This is said to happen every year. It is no coincidence that on this day, the sanctification of the home takes place with prayer and the sprinkling of holy water. During this annual visit, the priest prays for God's mercy on the household, asking Him to rid it of all evil and to fill it with blessings.

Greek Santa Claus

Santa Claus in Greece is a different figure from the one known in most of the world. The Greek Santa Claus is Agios Vasilis, or Saint Basil, and he brings presents on New Year’s Eve. Agios Vasilis was a kind-hearted and compassionate man who dedicated his life to helping the poor and needy. In 362 AD, he was ordained as a deacon and eventually became Bishop of Caesarea (in modern-day Turkey). As Bishop, he made aiding the suffering a priority. He gave away his inheritance, founded charities for the poor, the sick, and travellers, and even started a soup kitchen to help those in need. Agios Vasilis was far from the jolly, rotund figure often associated with Santa Claus. He was tall and thin, with a black beard and intense, penetrating eyes. He died on 1st January 379 AD, which is why the Greek Orthodox Church honours his memory on that day. For this reason, in Greece, Agios Vasilis brings presents on New Year’s Eve rather than on Christmas Day.

The morning of 31st December comes alive as children go from door to door singing kalanta (carols), and they are rewarded with coins. One of the traditions on New Year’s Day is the belief that the first person to enter the home in the new year brings either good or bad luck. To ensure a fortunate year, the first visitor—known as the podariko—should be a loving and lucky person. The ideal choice is a small child, as they are believed to bring the best omen with their innocence, pure hearts, and honesty. The first step into the house should be made with the right foot—never the left—as stepping in with the left foot is thought to bring bad luck.

New Year’s Eve

Many things have changed over the years, but one thing has remained constant. Whether it’s the rosy-cheeked, short-haired children of the past or the mobile-phone-armed youngsters of today, Greek children continue to sing the carols, some dating back to Byzantine times, on New Year’s Eve. From the morning onwards, children from the neighbourhood go from house to house, asking permission to sing the kalanta (carols), accompanied by a triangle. Opening the door to them is believed to bring good luck into the home, and in return, the carollers receive coins. In the evening, families gather to focus on the Vasilopita. Vasilopita literally means “Saint Basil’s Cake,” and it contains a hidden coin baked inside.

Saint Basil was the son of a wealthy and well-educated family from Caesarea in Cappadocia, born in 330 AD. After extensive studies in Caesarea, Constantinople, and Athens, as well as many travels, he became a theologian. Eventually, he distributed all his personal wealth among the poor and founded the Basiliad, the first hospital in history. Named after its founder, the Basiliad was considered one of the wonders of the world at the time, comprising a poorhouse, hospice, and hospital. According to legend, when Saint Basil’s city was under siege by a ruthless tyrant, he asked the people to contribute valuables to pay a ransom and save the city. However, the tyrant, humbled by the townspeople’s solidarity, withdrew without taking the ransom. Basil was then faced with the challenge of returning the valuables. With no way of knowing what belonged to whom, he asked the village bakers to bake loaves of bread, each containing a share of the valuables. Miraculously, everyone received exactly what they had donated.

Since then, the tradition of cutting the Vasilopita has been firmly established. Orthodox families around the world look forward to this wonderful annual custom. The belief that the golden Vasilopita coin brings luck and good fortune in the coming year is still held dear. Family members gather around the table in joy and anticipation to see who will find the coin, as the cake is methodically sliced. The head of the family cuts the first slice for Jesus Christ, the second for the Virgin Mary, the third for Saint Basil, the fourth for the poor, and then one slice for each family member, from oldest to youngest. Piece by piece, the excitement builds. Whoever finds the coin in their slice is said to enjoy good luck in the coming year—and more importantly, they carry a cherished memory and keepsake for life.

Another beloved Greek New Year tradition is the smashing of a pomegranate. This custom, dating back to ancient times, is believed to have originated in the Peloponnese or Serres before spreading across the country. In Greek mythology, the pomegranate has symbolised strength, life, fertility, eternity, and good fortune since antiquity. During the Christmas season in Greece, pomegranates can be seen everywhere—hanging on doors, in shop decorations—some are real fruit, others are crafted from silver, gold, brass, or glitter-painted red. But the true custom is breaking a pomegranate. At midnight, someone throws a pomegranate on the doorstep to break it open. The red seeds that scatter represent the household’s luck for the New Year; the more seeds that fall, the luckier the family will be. If someone gets a red stain from the juice, they’re believed to have especially good luck that year. There are regional variations of this tradition across Greece. In some villages, families would take a pomegranate to church to be blessed before breaking it at home.

And last but not least is the arrival of the Greek Santa Claus—Agios Vasilis, or Saint Basil! He brings the presents on New Year’s Eve. Saint Basil died on 1st January 379 AD, and so the Greek Orthodox Church commemorates him on 1st January. This is why, in Greece, Agios Vasilis brings presents on New Year’s Eve, not on Christmas Eve. The 1st of January is also the name day for those called Vasilis or Vasiliki. If you met anyone with that name during your holidays in Greece, don’t forget to send them a message with "Chronia Polla"!

6 January: Epiphany

Epiphany is one of the most sacred Greek Orthodox celebrations, rich in many Christian traditions that also date back to ancient times. Epiphany, also called Theofania (meaning "Vision of God") or Fota (meaning "Light"), is celebrated on January 6th. It is a day of joy and brightness, as Christians celebrate the baptism of Jesus Christ by John the Baptist. The customs surrounding Epiphany begin the day before. You will likely see Greek children singing special Greek songs called kalanta. These children can be seen singing in public squares, at small businesses, or even on public transport. The idea behind this is that they are symbolically communicating the message of Jesus’ baptism. It is common for adults to give them a few coins in return for their efforts.

The “Great Blessing” happens in church on the day of Epiphany. A ceremony called the Lesser Sanctification of Water, or mikros agiasmos, is performed by priests. Sanctified water is sprinkled on the congregation. Then the “Dive of the Cross” takes place: A cross is thrown into the sea by the priest in Zante town (although in Zante, the cross is not thrown into the sea, but rather blessed by the local Bishop and mounted on a long pole). According to popular belief, this ritual gives the water the power to cleanse and purify. In many places, after the dive of the cross, locals rush to the beaches or the shores of rivers or lakes to wash their agricultural tools and even icons. According to common folk belief, icons lose their original strength and power over time, but they can be restored by dipping them in the water blessed by the cross. This practice may be a survival of ancient beliefs. Athenians held a ceremony called “washing,” in which the statue of Athena was carried in procession to the coast of Faliro, where it was washed with saltwater to cleanse and renew its sacred powers.

Today, avgolemono is often served on many tables. It is a very common dish enjoyed throughout the year. Avgolemono is a simple chicken broth infused with a lemon and egg mixture, generally cooked with rice or orzo. The consistency varies depending on personal taste, and the soup is often served as the first meal after the Christmas Eve church service and again on Epiphany.

Finally, let us not forget the blessing of the house by your local priest. The sanctification of the home takes place with prayer and the sprinkling of holy water. During this annual visit, the priest asks God to have mercy on the house, rid it of any evil, and fill it with blessings. Everyone in the house prays together for the living and the dead members of the family, as well as all who have lived in the house. The priest then blesses the house. Traditions of the ceremony differ according to local custom, but these are the general guidelines: A candle with an icon and some holy water should be placed in a suitable location, such as the kitchen, dining room table, or home altar. A list of first names for whom prayers are to be offered should also be prepared, including members of the family and everyone living in the house. The list should clearly distinguish between the living and the deceased. If it is customary to give the priest a gift, it should not be placed with the holy objects on the table but can be prepared in advance and given at the conclusion of the service. When the priest arrives, all present in the house should gather around the icon with the candle. As the priest proceeds, he sprinkles holy water and prays for a blessing upon each room. Once the entire house has been blessed, the family gathers again around the table, and the priest blesses each person present. And, of course, today is the name day for Fotis and Foteini. We will phone them and say CHRONIA POLLA!